Friday, December 30, 2011
Wednesday, December 28, 2011
Tuesday, December 27, 2011
Monday, December 26, 2011
Sunday, December 25, 2011
Wednesday, December 21, 2011
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Sunday, December 18, 2011
Friday, December 16, 2011
Thursday, December 15, 2011
World Intervention Day - Third Thursday of December
World Intervention Day (Annually, every 3rd Thursday in December) is dedicated to raising awareness of the very real physical, financial and emotional costs associated with behavioral crisis, no matter the source. Government and U.S. health officials estimate that addiction and the costs associated with treatment are the #1 source of preventable death in the US including chemical dependency and alcoholism to eating disorders, spending, gambling and more.
This day of recognition offers a way to rally support for family and friends to step in with hope, determination and a plan to help a loved one in their journey to recovery.
World Intervention Day helps raise awareness and serves as a call to action to: get assessed, get stabilized and most importantly, get the help you or a loved one desperately needs to get well.
The startling statistics show:
• 1 in 6 Americans report that they “drink too much,” while 1 in 20 say they have problems with extreme drinking
• 1 in 38 Americans has an eating disorder. One out of 10 are men; 9 out of 10 are women
• 1 in 43 Americans has a gambling problem
• 1 in 15 Americans regularly uses illicit drugs
• 1 in 20 Americans is currently dealing with depression
• 1 in 5 American adults smoke cigarettes
• 1 in 13 Americans suffer from an unhealthy Internet dependency
World Intervention Day is a chance to bust the myths of change. The support system around a struggling loved one often stands still, and even builds up a support system around the problem that enables chaos and crisis. Long after the red light goes off that help is needed, friends and family struggle to agree upon what to do, with an average of 24 months passing before anything is ever done. Behind a behavioral crisis and the refusal of help, the resounding “NO!” there’s a “YES” dying to come out.
Wednesday, December 14, 2011
Monday, December 12, 2011
Sunday, December 11, 2011
Saturday, December 10, 2011
Human Rights Day
On December 10, 1948, the United Nations pronounced the Universal Declaration of Human Rights. Human Rights are inalienable rights which belong to each person on this earth merely because he or she exists. It is as follows:
This plain language version is only given as a guide. For an exact rendering of each principle, refer students to the original. This version is based in part on the translation of a text, prepared in 1978, for the World Association for the School as an Instrument of Peace, by a Research Groyp of the University of Geneva, under the responsibility of Prof. L. Massarenti. In preparing the translation, the Group used a basic vocabulary of 2,500 words in use in the French-speaking part of Switzerland. Teachers may adopt this methodology by translating the text of the Universal Declaration in the language in use in their region. |
Friday, December 9, 2011
Fitness Inspiration - Ramel Feliz
I have trained with a personal trainer when I was in my late 20s and my late 30s and understood the value of a trainer. Now that I am in my late 40s, I have a trainer focusing on my total fitness, longevity and optimal health. Despite 10 to 15 years of physical abuse self-inflicted and 5 years of sobriety and recovery, I look and feel younger than I did in my 20s and 30s. I owe a great part of this to Ramel Feliz, my trainer. yeah Buddy!! www.rameltdown.com.
Wednesday, December 7, 2011
The Japanese Attack on Pearl Harbor - 70th Anniversary
Today is the 70th year since the Sunday attacks on Pearl Harbor, Hawaii by the Empire of Japan. This action caused the United States to declare war on Japan and led to the USA's entrance into World War II. Japan was destroyed and had to rebuild from the ashes. Rebuild it did and I had the opportunity to live in Japan for one year from 1984-1985. I fell in love with Japan and it became one of the most transformational years of my life. I love so much of Japanese life, language, culture and people. I cannot imagine being at war with these people, but then I cannot imagine being at war with any people. I have friends in almost every country of the world and have no enemies, except for those people who do not know me yet.
Many people hate former adversaries in war. I can't imagine such hatred. I honor all who died in this attack - all who died.
Monday, December 5, 2011
Sunday, December 4, 2011
Friday, December 2, 2011
Africa - land of Adventure
Africa is a place of imagination. A place of great beauty and great horror. A place of great courage and great tragedy. A land of such injustice and such redemption. It has been called by Richard Dowden "Altered States; Ordinary Miracles."
For me, Africa is the birthplace of mankind and the source of my dreams of adventure.
For me, Africa is the birthplace of mankind and the source of my dreams of adventure.
Thursday, December 1, 2011
World AIDS Day
Today, I honor all of my friends who have left this world because of AIDS. This terrible disease has claimed the lives of more friends than any other disease or event. Here in Florida, we have the third largest population of those infected with HIV in the nation. One in every 205 white men, one in ever 113 Latino, and one in every 42 African American men in Florida is living with HIV in Florida. Nationally, AIDS is the leading cuase of death among young African American women. But we can make a difference; I can make a difference one on one and together because We are GREATER than AIDS and HIV.
Wednesday, November 30, 2011
Monday, November 28, 2011
Thursday, November 24, 2011
Thanksgiving - Day of Gratitude
May
every day
be
Thanksgiving.
Thanksgiving is a time when many families gather in gratitude, and sometimes in prayer. Composed around the turn of the twentieth century, Walter Rauschenbusch, the theologian and Baptist social reformer’s words remain as beautiful and poignant today as they did a hundred years ago.
Thanksgiving Day Prayer
by Walter Rauschenbusch (1861–1918)
For the wide sky and the blessed sun,
For the salt sea and the running water,
For the everlasting hills
And the never-resting winds,
For trees and the common grass underfoot.
We thank you for our senses
By which we hear the songs of birds,
And see the splendor of the summer fields,
And taste of the autumn fruits,
And rejoice in the feel of the snow,
And smell the breath of the spring.
Grant us a heart wide open to all this beauty;
And save our souls from being so blind
That we pass unseeing
When even the common thorn bush
Is aflame with your glory,
O God our creator,
Who lives and reigns for ever and ever.
every day
be
Thanksgiving.
Thanksgiving is a time when many families gather in gratitude, and sometimes in prayer. Composed around the turn of the twentieth century, Walter Rauschenbusch, the theologian and Baptist social reformer’s words remain as beautiful and poignant today as they did a hundred years ago.
Thanksgiving Day Prayer
by Walter Rauschenbusch (1861–1918)
For the wide sky and the blessed sun,
For the salt sea and the running water,
For the everlasting hills
And the never-resting winds,
For trees and the common grass underfoot.
We thank you for our senses
By which we hear the songs of birds,
And see the splendor of the summer fields,
And taste of the autumn fruits,
And rejoice in the feel of the snow,
And smell the breath of the spring.
Grant us a heart wide open to all this beauty;
And save our souls from being so blind
That we pass unseeing
When even the common thorn bush
Is aflame with your glory,
O God our creator,
Who lives and reigns for ever and ever.
The following is from a segment on one of my favorite radio programs called “On Being”, hosted by Krista Tippett. She is an angel. Check it out at http://being.publicradio.org/
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
Monday, November 21, 2011
Road blocks in our minds.
When I was in active alcoholism, I would count the days until the weekend or I would wish for fall or winter not to come. I was always against time - counting it, distorting it. Hating it. When I got sober, I counted sober days. Everyone in prison, including the staff, count backwards until freedom. In many ways, we are all doing time. Today, Time equals things I must earn...it means I do not count time my way, but let time unfold. I read the following meditation and love it:
Time
I recognize that there are two concepts of time. There is earth time, by which I structure my day and by which society operates, that is tied to three dimensions of space, time and circumstance and there is timeless time, or that state beyond time of simple beingness. Though I operate by earth time, I need not get stuck there. I always have access to another level of time through the quiet and stillness within me. Each day I will allow myself to be with timeless time.
I will spend time in eternity.
Physicists themselves are not consistent in how they employ these concepts. They may use one set of definitions in the laboratory but lapse back into the ideas of common sense when they leave the job. In spite of these uncertainties, I will refer... to two types of time: (1) the time of common sense (linear, flowing, external time; the time of progress, development, and history). and (2) the time that is alluded to in modern physics (nonflowing, nonlinear time; the "time of eternity"; the time in which things do not happen, but simply "are").
Larry Dossey, M.D.
Larry Dossey, M.D.
Sunday, November 20, 2011
Friday, November 18, 2011
World Championship Beach Marathon
Tomorrow I will run the World Championship Beach Half Marathon in Cocoa Beach, Florida. It will be my first long distance race on sand. I plan to run in my barefoot shoes. The most I have ever run in those shoes is 5 miles. The Half Marathon will be 13.1 miles. It will be my 9th marathon, half and full of the year. Miami Marathon, Melbourne Marathon Relay, A1A Fort Lauderdale Half Marathon, Gasparilla Half Marathon, Miami Beach 13.1, Gulf Coast Half Marathon, Chicago Half Marathon, Atlanta 13.1, Halloweenathon, Beach Half Marathon, Space Coast Half Marathon and end with Palm Beaches Full Marathon - all to raise $11,000 for GUA Africa's Emma Academy - www.runfogguaafrica.com .
Wednesday, November 16, 2011
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
Yoga - Prayer and Meditation
An article from Fox News Latino, November 15, 2011:
YOGA PROGRAM IN MEXICAN PRISON HELPS BREAK CYCLE OF ADDICTION, VIOLENCE
Mexico City, Mexico – David Arellano Lara was sentenced to 11 years for car theft and kidnapping. In his Mexican prison, he dealt drugs and smoked pot and crack. But an innovative yoga program in prison designed to treat addicts proved to be his way out of addiction, out of jail and into a new life. He remembers being locked in a cell too small for the 20 men inside—some of the prison’s worst offenders—and teaching yoga to them all from the confines of his bunk.
If you train them and if you give them the tools, and you give them jobs in which they can give back to society, you actually close the energetic circle and what used to be the problem is now the solution. - Ann Moxey, a yoga instructor and psychologist
He remembers sharing what he knew from the yoga classes he had taken in jail before he was transferred to that crowded wing as a punishment for beating up more than a dozen guards in a crack-fueled rampage. He taught the other men simple asanas, meditation and pranayama breathing techniques to keep everyone calm.
“It was bit by bit,” he says about learning yoga and quitting drugs. “It’s a process in which you start to gain consciousness of yourself.” In 2003, Ann Moxey, a yoga instructor and psychologist specializing in addictions, founded the yoga program in the Atlacholoaya federal prison in Cuernavaca, Morelos, south of Mexico City, where Arellano served seven years before getting out early on good behavior.
The program is called Parinaama Yoga.
The yoga programs have since spread. Today, yoga is taught in three juvenile jails and one adult prison in Mexico City and in adult detention facilities in the cities of San Miguel de Allende, Guadalajara and Puebla.
Three years out of prison and two years drug-free, Arellano works a yoga instructor at one of the Mexico City juvenile jails. Moxey, meanwhile, has begun a teacher training program inside Atlacholoaya, and about 20 men have joined. “I wasn’t hopeful that he would make it, but he did,” she said, recalling that Arellano was “an extremely violent prisoner.” She added: “If you train them and if you give them the tools, and you give them jobs in which they can give back to society, you actually close the energetic circle and what used to be the problem is now the solution.”
Substance abuse is a problem in Mexican prisons, where corrupt guards let drugs pass into the hands of gangs inside. That makes rehabilitation especially hard. Arellano says Moxey’s yoga classes helped him break his addictions and separate himself from a gang. “I started to see that there were other things in life—that not everything was violence, smoking and doing drugs,” he said. Another former inmate and Moxey student, Fredy DÃaz Arista, also teaches yoga in a juvenile detention center in Mexico’s capital. He said he feels “compelled to give back what was given to me.” Both Arellano and DÃaz say they often see themselves in the young men they teach, some of whom as teenagers are already addicts, dealers, thieves or assassins; some already have children of their own. Many, as Arellano says he was, are initially resistant to the idea of practicing yoga.
“Sometimes I see them, and I understand them,” Arellano said. “Hell, there is no problem, I tell them. Take it easy. Everything is going to be okay.”
Lauren Villagran is a freelance writer based in Mexico.
Follow us on twitter.com/foxnewslatino
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Read more: http://latino.foxnews.com/latino/lifestyle/2011/11/14/yoga-program-in-mexican-prison-helps-break-cycle-addiction-violence/#ixzz1dpC2ziOQ
YOGA PROGRAM IN MEXICAN PRISON HELPS BREAK CYCLE OF ADDICTION, VIOLENCE
Mexico City, Mexico – David Arellano Lara was sentenced to 11 years for car theft and kidnapping. In his Mexican prison, he dealt drugs and smoked pot and crack. But an innovative yoga program in prison designed to treat addicts proved to be his way out of addiction, out of jail and into a new life. He remembers being locked in a cell too small for the 20 men inside—some of the prison’s worst offenders—and teaching yoga to them all from the confines of his bunk.
If you train them and if you give them the tools, and you give them jobs in which they can give back to society, you actually close the energetic circle and what used to be the problem is now the solution. - Ann Moxey, a yoga instructor and psychologist
He remembers sharing what he knew from the yoga classes he had taken in jail before he was transferred to that crowded wing as a punishment for beating up more than a dozen guards in a crack-fueled rampage. He taught the other men simple asanas, meditation and pranayama breathing techniques to keep everyone calm.
“It was bit by bit,” he says about learning yoga and quitting drugs. “It’s a process in which you start to gain consciousness of yourself.” In 2003, Ann Moxey, a yoga instructor and psychologist specializing in addictions, founded the yoga program in the Atlacholoaya federal prison in Cuernavaca, Morelos, south of Mexico City, where Arellano served seven years before getting out early on good behavior.
The program is called Parinaama Yoga.
The yoga programs have since spread. Today, yoga is taught in three juvenile jails and one adult prison in Mexico City and in adult detention facilities in the cities of San Miguel de Allende, Guadalajara and Puebla.
Three years out of prison and two years drug-free, Arellano works a yoga instructor at one of the Mexico City juvenile jails. Moxey, meanwhile, has begun a teacher training program inside Atlacholoaya, and about 20 men have joined. “I wasn’t hopeful that he would make it, but he did,” she said, recalling that Arellano was “an extremely violent prisoner.” She added: “If you train them and if you give them the tools, and you give them jobs in which they can give back to society, you actually close the energetic circle and what used to be the problem is now the solution.”
Substance abuse is a problem in Mexican prisons, where corrupt guards let drugs pass into the hands of gangs inside. That makes rehabilitation especially hard. Arellano says Moxey’s yoga classes helped him break his addictions and separate himself from a gang. “I started to see that there were other things in life—that not everything was violence, smoking and doing drugs,” he said. Another former inmate and Moxey student, Fredy DÃaz Arista, also teaches yoga in a juvenile detention center in Mexico’s capital. He said he feels “compelled to give back what was given to me.” Both Arellano and DÃaz say they often see themselves in the young men they teach, some of whom as teenagers are already addicts, dealers, thieves or assassins; some already have children of their own. Many, as Arellano says he was, are initially resistant to the idea of practicing yoga.
“Sometimes I see them, and I understand them,” Arellano said. “Hell, there is no problem, I tell them. Take it easy. Everything is going to be okay.”
Lauren Villagran is a freelance writer based in Mexico.
Follow us on twitter.com/foxnewslatino
Like us at facebook.com/foxnewslatino
Read more: http://latino.foxnews.com/latino/lifestyle/2011/11/14/yoga-program-in-mexican-prison-helps-break-cycle-addiction-violence/#ixzz1dpC2ziOQ
Monday, November 14, 2011
Sunset Prayer.
November is the month of spirituality, of prayer and meditation. This photo I took at sunset on St. Pete Beach as I concluded a meditation. It was so beautiful. Ten years ago, I would go to this location for a few cocktails and watch the sun go down. Today, I pray for clarity. I ask God to show me truth - to see His vision for my life. I pray that I will be illuminated by His light so that I may illuminate those around me. I thank God for this world. I thank God for this life and pray for peace and joy. I pray that I may see God's hand in all aspects of my life and I pray for a grateful heart.
Saturday, November 12, 2011
Thursday, November 10, 2011
Adventure - Big Goals!!!
This morning I rode the length of Gulf Boulevard from Passe-a-grille, St. Pete Beach, Florida to Clearwater, Florida - 24 miles north and back south again - 48 miles total. It was something I always wanted to do. Tomorrow for 11-11-11 I got the idea to run 11 miles and then cycle 11 miles and then run another 11 miles. Why? So that I can run for GUA Africa and so that I will never forget this day. Have big goals - "The big question is whether you are going to be able to say a hearty yes to your adventure. - Joseph Campbell.
Tuesday, November 8, 2011
Monday, November 7, 2011
Sunday, November 6, 2011
River CIty 10k Race
On November 1, 2008, I ran my very first race, the River City 5K race. It was a Rotary Club sponsored event and I had never run any races before. Less than a month from that race, I had been released from home confinement and was free. A few days before I ran around Lake Eola four (4) times which I think was approximately 3 miles or 5 kilometers. On the day of the 5K race, I started out as hard as I could and I do not remember if I walked at all, but I do remember being so hot and so tired that I swore I would "never do this again". Once I finished, I was standing around with my parents and learned that I had come in 2nd in my age division - there were only 2 people in my age division. I won a plaque! My first race and I won something. It did not matter that I was really slow. I had won at something when I felt like a loser at everything.
After that race, I ran the Turkey Trot 5k for Thanksgiving in downtown Orlando, Florida and then I ran the OUC 5k the first weekend of December and was given my first medal. Some other people were going to run a half marathon which seemed incomprehensibly difficult for me. I thought "Wow, I wonder if I could ever run so far." The next year I did that OUC Half Marathon and it was my first half marathon. One month later I ran the Disney Marathon, my first marathon.
Yesterday, I ran the River City 10K for the 4th time and this is the first year that I did not win a plaque. I was disappointed, but keeping things in perspective...this year alone, I earned the Miami Marathon medal, 7 half marathon medals, the Mount Everest Challenge medal, and the Miracle Miles 15k medal...it is about the race. And I loved this run, perfect weather and I had energy for the whole race. I lose to win.
After that race, I ran the Turkey Trot 5k for Thanksgiving in downtown Orlando, Florida and then I ran the OUC 5k the first weekend of December and was given my first medal. Some other people were going to run a half marathon which seemed incomprehensibly difficult for me. I thought "Wow, I wonder if I could ever run so far." The next year I did that OUC Half Marathon and it was my first half marathon. One month later I ran the Disney Marathon, my first marathon.
Yesterday, I ran the River City 10K for the 4th time and this is the first year that I did not win a plaque. I was disappointed, but keeping things in perspective...this year alone, I earned the Miami Marathon medal, 7 half marathon medals, the Mount Everest Challenge medal, and the Miracle Miles 15k medal...it is about the race. And I loved this run, perfect weather and I had energy for the whole race. I lose to win.
Friday, November 4, 2011
2011 Run for GUA Africa - 11 Marathons - Lose to Win! Never Give Up! Never Give In!!
My goal for 2011 was run run 11 marathons to raise $11,000 for GUA Africa's Emma Academy in South Sudan by asking 1000 to donate $11 to the cause. Thirty days from today I will run the Palm Beaches Marathon and will complete my goal. From today until December 4, 2011, I will run the Beaches World Championships Half Marathon -11/19/11, the Space Coast Half Marathon - 11/27/11 and the Palm Beaches Full Marathon - 12/4/11. So far I have gained 57 donors and $1,718. I feel like I am failing again, but I need to remember that I never give up! Emma Jal taught me to try, just try and try and never give up. Today, I was training and wanted to quit so many times. I ran 10 miles and just wanted to quit at each mile, but I did not. The goal was met - it did not change my life or anyone else's, but had I quit, I would have felt terrible. Today, I did what I said I was going to do. That is good enough today.
Wednesday, November 2, 2011
The Roaring Lion Kills No Prey
The roaring lion kills no prey. - Nigerian proverb. Today, I don't waste my time roaring, whinning, or crying for that which I wish I had or wish were different. In my alcoholism, I would sit for hours and days and weeks wishing things were different. Today, I take action to make changes, always asking for divine guidance. Today, action means Any Change Toward Improving One's Nature. Today, I will do 12 things that improve my nature.
Tuesday, November 1, 2011
Prayer is the answer to every problem
PRAYER - Prayer is the answer to every problem in Life. It puts us in tune with the divine wisdom which knows how to adjust everything perfectly. So often we do not pray in certain situations because form our standpoint the outlook is hopeless. But nothing is impossible with God. Nothing is so entangles that it cannot be remedied. No human relation is too strained for God to bring reconciliation and understanding. No habit is so deeply rooted that it cannot be overcome. No one is so weak that they cannot be strong. No one is so ill that they cannot be healed. No mind is so dull that it cannot be made brilliant. Whatever we need or desire, if we trust God, He will supply it. If anything is causing worry or anxiety, let us stop rehearing the difficulty and trust God for healing, love and power.
Sunday, October 30, 2011
Friday, October 28, 2011
National Geographic Adventure
One of the greatest magazines of all time is National Geographic and I loved when National Geographic Adventure was published. I have not seen it on the newstands, but its website is one of my homepages on my computer. I dream of being involved in all kinds of adventure. We need adventure to remind us that sobriety is a journey and a fantastic adventure.
http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/trips/americas-best-adventures/photo-gallery/
http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/trips/americas-best-adventures/photo-gallery/
Tuesday, October 25, 2011
Problems do not exist today...only opportunities.
This morning I was overwhelmed with all the challenges and problems I need to deal with in the next few weeks and just got started. I had a friend drive me to the library so that I could get some work done while my Jeep was being repaired. Then, I realized that I had left my mobile phone at her house. I had no phone, no numbers, no way to go anywhere and needed to be available for many people. So, I decided to run back to her house. It was no further than any other run I had made. I ran. Now, I did not want to, but it was the best part of my day.
Saturday, October 22, 2011
Acceptance...but racism too?
I am told in recovery that I simply had to stop fighting everyone and everything - but even racism, and with racism, I include homosexuality, misogyny and all other forms of hate. But then I understood that, yes, even hate I had to stop fighting...The Power of Peace and Love conquers all. When I am disturbed, I lose. When I accept, I can move forward and change.
Friday, October 21, 2011
Athletics
I am not a great athlete. I am not even a good athlete. However, I am an athlete. I work out and train every day and take my training seriously. This year I am running 11 full and half marathons, several other 5k, 10k and 15k races and regularly surf, cycle, kayak and other activities. I am now learning to do kiteboarding. last week I am went windsurfing. I may not be a great athlete or even a good athlete, but I am an athlete and I am proud of my effort and focus to do the best I can. That is why sobriety is an adventure for me.
Thursday, October 20, 2011
Perseverance and Gratitude.
We say that a grateful alcoholic or addict will not drink or drug; he would never even consider it. I am so grateful that I am grateful. If I look at my life objectively or comparatively, I would hate so much of it. Nothing is really as I would have planned it or even wanted it. Yet, I have learned that whatever it is sober, it is good and I am free to choose my attitude under any and all circumstances. October, being the month of perseverance, I welcome the feeling of persevering and overcoming great odds. Yet, God has a great sense of humor and great sense of timing. When I pray for perseverance, I actually receive more events, more challenges and more obstacles to overcome.
This morning I ran 9 miles and did 1 hour of weight training - then abs workout. I am emotionally and physically drained. I am so tired. I laughed and cried. These are conditions of my endorphins off the charts. I am so grateful that I have the ability to see the good in all things and to see suffering as optional.
This morning I ran 9 miles and did 1 hour of weight training - then abs workout. I am emotionally and physically drained. I am so tired. I laughed and cried. These are conditions of my endorphins off the charts. I am so grateful that I have the ability to see the good in all things and to see suffering as optional.
Tuesday, October 18, 2011
Monday, October 17, 2011
Saturday, October 15, 2011
Thursday, October 13, 2011
The Climber - Alex Honnold
The Climber
Alex Honnold aced a record-breaking, climb-till-you-drop week in Yosemite.
Perhaps the most impressive detail buried in 25-year-old Alex Honnold's ridiculously large adventure in Yosemite this July was the eight-hour drive the Californian made to Los Angeles at the very end. At that point, he’d been up for 36 hours straight—spending a day first doing interviews and shooting a climbing video. And then, at 8 p.m., he and partner Shawn Leary climbed 3,000-foot El Capitan for 24 hours straight, summitting three times and breaking the speed record for consecutive ascents.
All told, Honnold and Leary had scaled more than 8,000 vertical feet, and hiked down another 9,000 for trips back to the valley. Honnold then scarfed dinner, took a shower, and hit the road, driving south to see his girlfriend. He’d been up 42 hours all told. “I didn’t even know I could do something like that,” he says of that two-day stretch. “I really pushed some limits that time.” That time.
Just a week earlier, Honnold had managed to scale the walls of both iconic Half Dome and El Cap, solo, in just over 11 hours, crushing the speed records for El Cap and the two routes consecutively—what’s known as the solo linkup. That outing, which left the climbing world slack-jawed with its audacity, was, as Honnold puts it, “just kind of fun.” Which begs the question: What can this kid climb if he really works at something? Probably anything.
—By Ryan Bradley
IN MY OWN WORDS
By Alex Honnold
“Oh, I Could Do That”I was out climbing with a friend of mine and we got to talking about this old film we both love, Masters of Stone V. In it, there's footage of Dean Potter doing the solo linkup, and it was, like, the coolest thing I'd ever seen when I was 15. I got to thinking, Oh, I could probably do that this season. I didn't exactly know how, but I figured it couldn't be that bad.
Early Start
I hiked up to Half Dome the night before, slept at the base, chatted with these two Swedish dudes who'd done it that day, then went to sleep. I woke up at 4:45 a.m., got up ten minutes before light and just started climbing. I was up there romping. I don't know how quickly I did it. Two hours and nine minutes? Yeah. Pretty fast.
“Nothing About This Was Super Extreme”
By the time I hiked down Half Dome, my friends were just getting out of bed. It was maybe 8 a.m. I had stashed a mountain bike at Muir Lake, which saved me a little bit of effort. I biked back to my van, made myself breakfast, and drove to El Cap. Nothing about this was super extreme. I took a pack and food and headlamp and jacket because I really had no idea how long it would take. I'd never soloed El Cap before.
Some Final Cramming
It's 3,000 feet. In my life I'd done three or four pitches, but this is 30. I'd read in books how to rope solo, but I wasn't totally sure what I'd be getting into.
Unintentional Speed
I sort of realized an hour into it that I was just going to crush the speed record. I checked my timer and was like, Oh man, that is pretty quick. So I stopped to eat. I wasn't really gunning for speed, I was just hoping to do the linkup because I thought it would be so cool.
Heroism
The Pancake Flake above the Great Roof was this long involved process. At the end I was like, Man, that's enough of that. It’s super exposed, 2,300 feet off the ground, and a really clean, sheer part of the wall. Up there I was like, This is crazy. You get through it with a layback, where, with counter-pressure, you’re pulling back against the side of the crack and your body is open—it's a very exposed style of climbing. If your foot slips you could fall off the wall. I’m up there, facing outward, the Valley 2,300 feet below and thinking, This is heroic.
A Quick Snack and Chat
In the last couple hundred feet I ran into some climbing parties. I'm sure they were like, What the f***!? They'd been up there for four or five days. I stopped and chatted with them for a bit. Also, honestly, my arms were getting a little tired. So I shared some of my Goldfish with this chick on belay.
A Bigger ClimbThe solo linkup I came up with spur the moment, but the triple was monumental. Three times. Twenty-three hours. We were going speed route—actually moving continuously for a full 16 hours, which is kind of tiring, you know? That actually kind of pushed us. And having to hike down El Cap three times is sort of a lot of work.
I rewatched Masters of Stone recently and, I don't know. Some of the magic is gone.
The foregoing is an excerpt from National Geographic Adventure - http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/adventurers-of-the-year/alex-honnold-2010/
Tuesday, October 11, 2011
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